You can learn more about a country at its edges than at it's center. It teaches how it interacts with it's neighbours, how it enforces its identity.  I'm traveling along this line that defines the border of the country I live in. To search for traces of this line that is so well defined on charts and hardwired in our mind.
This borderland defines itself for me by the fact that I couldn't find any evidence of this territory border at ground level. Not in the landscape, not in the people. There is no hard separation in language on both sides of this line. The people see themselves more as a borderland people than that they identify themselves with the country they live in. 
Only in the man made structures, posts, plates and rules you can find evidence of this territorial border.
Strangely enough, these seem not so important by the people living in this borderland. In fact, in secret crossing this border was a reason to live in this borderland. Smuggle has always been a very lucrative business. This line attracted people rather than keeping people in or out of its boundaries. You could argue that this borderland is a place where two countries end but for me it is more like a beginning of two countries. This line is maybe the centre not an outer edge. 

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